This invention relates to a cosmetic composition contain carnosine that is highly effective in controlling the ageing process by reversing, preventing and reducing wrinkling of skin. In particular the invention includes a complex containing carnosine that is especially effective in reversing, preventing and reducing the aging process that is visually observable through the formation of skin wrinkles. During the aging process glycated end products of bonding between protein material and sugar molecules naturally leads to formation of deep wrinkles in the skin that are particularly visible in normally exposed areas such as the face. Without being bound to the reasons for the effectiveness of the product of the present invention, it is theorized that carnosine prevents, reduces and can reverse the formation of such glycated end products and also breaks the protein-sugar bonds to enable actual reversal of skin wrinkles. If glycosylation were not prevented it would proceed as follows: a. sugar/aldehyde molecules approach protein molecules (for instance, malondialdehyde could approach, attach to and inactivate healthy protein molecules); b. sugar molecules attach to protein molecules leading to carbonylation crosslinking; c. the proteins that are carbonylated crosslinks (a detrimental factor); and d. advanced glycosylation end products (AGE's) form, which can cause extensive damage by reacting with free radicals and other toxins so that AGE's deposit in the cell structure (it is noted in this regard that malondialdehyde is the result of free radical damage to lipids, the fatty portion of cells, leading to a vicious cycle of aging (observed by skin wrinkling) since oxidation results in free radical formation that produces malondialdehyde, causing glycosylation that results in AGE's leading to more free radicals to repeat the process).
Prior research has determined that carnosine, with its known anti-glycating properties, may provide an anti-aging effect on fibroblast material by inhibiting cross-liking of glycoxidized proteins (Hipkiss et al. Mech. Ageing Dev., Sep. 15, 2000, 122(13), p. 1431-1445). Carnosine is reactive as an anti-glycating agent with aldehydes and ketones, that is compounds containing carbonyl groups (Hipkiss et al. Cell Mol. life Sci., May, 2000, 57 (5), p. 747-753 capable of blocking carbonylated proteins, that form in step b., describe above, and thus prevent the formation of detrimental AGE's.
Carnosine and complexes containing carnosine have been described in skin care compositions and to promote wound healing, as in U.S. Pat. No. 5,091,171 to Yu et al; U.S. Pat. No. 5,723,482 to Degwert et al; U.S. Pat. No. 5,606,588 to Zaloga et al; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,981,846 to Matsukura et al. It is noteworthy, with particular regard to the patent to Yu et al, that while various cosmetic effects are disclosed for compositions containing an alpha-hydroxyacid or alpha-ketoacid and various amphoteric materials, including dipeptides. It is specifically disclosed that although the presence of alkali (ammonium hydroxide) does permit the composition to be therapeutic for dry skin, it loses much of its potency against wrinkles. Carnosine is disclosed among the dipeptides set forth. However, the patent does not recognize that it could be effective against skin wrinkles under alkaline conditions.
It is an advantage of this invention that an alkaline skin cosmetic composition is provided that is topically applied and transdermally effective against wrinkling of skin.
It is a further advantage of this invention that the anti-wrinkle composition contains carnosine, derivatives thereof or mixtures of carnosine and derivatives thereof.
It is a further advantage of this invention that the carnosine and/or its derivatives are present in a complex that can be observed to reverse, prevent and reduce the aging process with regard to reversing, preventing and reducing formation of skin wrinkles.
Additional advantages resulting from the use of carnosine, including its derivatives include:                1. Ability to combine with sugar aldehydes such as malondialdehyde and inactivate them, thereby preventing carbonylation crosslinking;        2. As antiglycosylating agents they are superior in activity against free radicals to usual antioxidants, such as Vitamins E and C and the like that are not antiglycosylating agents;        3. They are antiglycosylating nutrients;        4. They inactivate free radicals within the cell after their formation,        5. They increase elimination of materials already damaged by free radicals;        6. They are effective against chronic inflation        7. They act as chelating agents to bind heavy metals and inactivate them, as well as assisting In regulating the concentration of these heavy metals (especially zinc and copper) to raise or lower the concentrations to desired levels;        8. They have antioxidant effect by stabilizing cell membranes and preventing free radical damage especially to the cell membranes;        9. They reduce or block excessive nitric oxide activity by blocking activation of guanylate cyclase, which is normally activated by nitric oxide.        
It is a further advantage of this invention that the alkaline composition is compatible with other cosmetically desirable components, particularly non-allergenic components.
Additional advantages will be apparent from consideration of the following specification.